Review: Highland Base, Iceland

Why book Highland Base?

Highland Base bills itself as an all-year-round “extreme paradise” in the remote highlands of central Iceland, an uninhabitable alpine wilderness formerly off-limits in winter. The intrepid can come here to hike, ski and snowshoe on a possible 70 mountains, bathe in geothermal pools and bask in the immense emptiness, purity and solitude. It’s also one of the best places to see the Northern Lights in Iceland. Embrace your inner explorer for the journey to get here: it can be long and arduous on the snow in winter. But it’s all part of the adventure and heightens the off-world sense of remoteness, which is Highland Base’s biggest sell.

Set the scene

Highland Base huddles like a space camp in the Ásgarður Valley dwarfed by the 1,477-metre tall Kerlingarfjöll mountain range that encircles it: a vast 367km² national park and the moonscape of snow drifts, mountains, glaciers, steaming geothermal valleys and silence. Kerlingarfjöll sits between the Langjökull and Hofsjökull Glaciers, Iceland's second and third largest ice caps at 953km² and 925km^2, respectively. Loðmundur mountain towers over everything like an ice castle. Snow persists here until June, after which the moonscape turns to Martian land: the summer reveals the barren slopes as the colour and texture of reindeer hide, all ash and red volcanic rhyolite stone. Kerlingarfjöll is, in fact, a vast system of tuya – or sub-glacial – volcanoes formed thousands of years ago. It might be -15 degrees centigrade outside in winter, but a kilometre beneath snowshoes lie vast, bubbling magma fields. Hot rivulets, the colour of rust, runs through the snow, and five kilometres from the base is Hveradalir, dubbed the “Valley of Hot Springs”, one of Iceland's largest and least visited geothermal areas. Meanwhile all of Kerlingarfjöll is covered with hiking trails.

Reaching Highland Base from Reykjavik in summer can take as little as three and a half hours. It’s possible to complete half of the southwestern ‘Golden Circle’ sightseeing circuit – including the Haukadalur geyser and Gullfoss waterfall – on Route 37 before turning off at Skjól basecamp onto the Kjölur Highland Route or Kjalvegur Road, an unpaved F road and ancient drover’s track dating back to the 9th century. But in winter, the road is closed, and Highland Base is only accessible in specially adapted Super Jeeps with decompressable tyres that help “ float” over snow drifts that can be two metres thick. During this time, the 70 km drive from Skjól can take four to six hours, depending on conditions. It feels a little like driving over clouds to the afterlife. Meanwhile, weather and budget permitting, a helicopter ride will get you there in 45 minutes.

The backstory

The Icelandic Sagas were full of terrifying tales. And stories about Kerlingarfjöll – Old Lady Mountains – were no exception. The impenetrable mountain range was thought to be ruled by trolls and spirits, who travelled after dark or were turned into stone. A 25-metre-high volcanic tuff tower on Mount Tindur was said to be the old woman transmogrified by sunlight. In reality, only outlaws and the occasional shepherds ventured here - two of whom disappeared in 1780 after attempting to cross the highlands with their flocks. After a prediction by a sorcerer 65 years later, their bodies were found under a lava field. The region remained unexplored until the late 19th century.

In 1933, the Hvítá River Bridge was built, after which pioneering naturalist, Guðmundur Einarsson, came here to teach mountaineering, followed by the Iceland Touring Association who constructed a cabin in 1937 (still standing) and set up hiking tours. In 1961, a summer school for skiers was founded: for four decades, it was where Icelanders learned the sport. But after the slopes were blanketed in ash from the 1996 eruption of the Grímsvötn volcano, the school closed. Subsequently, Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort renovated the cabins, and a new hotel went under construction only to grind to a halt in 2015. In 2017, Kerlingarfjöll was declared a nature reserve, after which the owners of The Retreat at the Blue Lagoon spa, the world-famous Geopark on the Reykjanes peninsula, stepped in to take over the project. Founded in 1992 by Dr Grímur Sæmundsen - one of the first to research and develop the health benefits of the silica-rich water emitted by Svartsengi geothermal power plant- Blue Lagoon Ltd is now a wellness and hospitality company with £370 million capital value. Highland Base soft-launched last July with an official opening date slated for spring 2024.

The rooms

Reykjavik’s Basalt Architects and Design Group Italia were brought in to create a BREEAM-standard sustainable resort that co-existed with the towering landscape and the pre-existing structures left by the former school and tourism projects. An angular new hotel with 26 rooms plus two suites with outdoor hot tubs and a restaurant was built with a cross-laminated pine exterior, lava stone floors, and six stand-alone pod-like “lodges”. Meanwhile, the old hotel building offers hostel accommodation, and sleeping bags can be used in five of seven old A-frame huts and the 1937 mountaineering hut, which will be rented out for groups of 15 in summer.

Interiors are Nordic minimalist in wood, iron, and black and white organic shapes. Wood-scented lodges have lounges and windows like Polaroids or panoramic screens that look out on the A-frames across the valley like strange beings with wizard-y hats. They are also stocked with checked wool capes, backgammon, black and white ceramics and coveted Blue Lagoon products. Sheets are textured rock-grey linens. In the hotel corridors, tawny carpets mirror July and August's ashy rhyolite surround while photos document the valley's former life as a ski school. All newly built rooms have window seats for sitting out "gluggaveður" – or “window weather” – a kind of Icelandic version of Hygge.

Food and drink

DaÞi Fridriksson, Highland Base’s manager who ran a chef school in Reykjavik for 11 years, works with chefs from The Retreat at the Blue Lagoon to produce “locally sourced and honest” plates, all served beneath the circular iron ceiling lights in the restaurant. Lunches and dinners are all tasty, high-quality comfort food like langoustine soup (similar to Humarsúpa, Lobster Soup) or “meat soup” with lamb, also known as Kjotsupa followed by grilled Artic Char or Icelandic tenderloin with root vegetables. Special note should go to the moreish Rúgbrauð (Rye Bread) and sensational butter whipped with sea salt. In the afternoon, waffles are served with mountains of whipped cream, homemade jams, and addictive dark hot chocolate that cries out for a shot of Brennavin (Icelandic schnapps ) after a day out in the snow or soaking in the hot pools. A healthy shot of cod liver oil is offered at breakfast with fresh eggs, gravlax, granola and Skyr, Icelandic yoghurt.

The spa

Currently under construction, a small spa will be stocked with products from the Blue Lagoon Skincare range developed at its research centre, which has closely studied the benefits of the Blue Lagoon’s water’s chemical composition, in particular silica and microalgae, which help the stimulate the skin to produce healthy collagen. Outside the hotel, the natural geothermal hot pools are an incredible viewing platform for the stars and the aurora borealis best seen in the highlands due to zero light pollution.

The service

Service is appropriately informal but full of natural Icelandic humour and charm. Guides are particularly experienced. Helga María Heidarsdóttir is part passionate glaciologist (and the president of the Association of Icelandic Mountain Guides) and part comedian with plaited pigtails. She leads 5km to 31 kilometres guided hikes into the mountains. There’s a brennavin and fish jerky reward when you reach the summits. The hotel provides snow crampons and walking poles. Ski hire can be arranged in Reykjavik. Snowmobiles will soon be available for rent. Staff are dressed by 66°North, founded in Iceland in 1926 by Hans Kristjánsson. The company’s hats, gloves and balaclavas are also for sale along with Blue Lagoon products in reception.

For families

There is no minimum age for guests. Hikes are taken according to ability.

Eco effort

Highland Base is currently run on renewable energy from a local power station, but drilling is currently taking place to a depth of 980 metres below ground level to be able to heat the whole base from geothermal energy.

Accessibility

Three rooms in the new hotel have been adapted to be accessible.

Anything left to mention?

Due to Iceland’s excellent high-speed networks, you can get a 5G mobile signal halfway up towering Loðmundur mountain.